Day 6 – Bruay La Buissiere to Arras

Turn neither to right nor left, keep your foot from evil (Proverbs 4:27)

Friday 6/4/2018

Distance 32.8km Total from Canterbury 172.6km

There are always options. I knew today was going to be a long distance, over 30km. I don’t mind doing over 30 when it is necessary. 25-28 is really comfortable. Two or three times I have walked 42km, most recently, in subzero temps, to Leon last November, and the first time on the day of my first arrival at Santiago de Compostela, with two Sardinians. We had intended to spend two days over the final distance, but somehow we just kept going. There is a 42 km day coming up next week – due to the lack of anywhere to stay within a shorter distance. Anyway, I will generally do what I can to shorten the distance.

For today’s journey there is the optional ‘scenic route’ meandering around through a series of eight or more villages, all I am sure interesting in their own way. And I am 100% sure now that none of them has a bar open for coffee! The distance, according to the book is an extra 5km. So I took a pragmatic approach and opted for the Rue Brunehaut again which we met yesterday. After finding my way 5km to Houdain, without, as I am now quite used to, any help from VF signage I came to a sign pointing in the direction of Arras, 25km. No turns! Very easy and very appealing. I use a guidebook on my phone and I don’t like having to hold my phone as I walk. I could put the guidebook away for the rest of the day. It is the D341 and although it is narrow, just one lane in each direction, it was not unpleasantly busy. I walked mostly along the margin, stepping into the grass verge whenever a large lorry passed. I must say that traffic was without exception very considerate and always gave me a wide berth. The fact that the road is so straight helps a lot with visibility.  My Italian guidebook says La Chausée Brunehaut è sempre lì a tentare…  ‘Rue Brunehaut is always there as a temptation’. Well I fell for the temptation.

Not a lot to say about the day really except that, quite exceptionally, I did find a bar open for coffee at Gauchin Le Gal. The gal of the title was a large heavy stone that used to magically appear at the door of a house when a spouse had been unfaithful. Coffee was served with a little Easter Bunny. Coffee rarely comes unaccompanied in these parts, though in truth coffee rarely comes at all.  

After about 20 km I passed the remains of the Abbey of St Eloi on the left. This was an Augustinian Abbey founded by an Irish monk in the 7th century. The remains are slight, but very tall, and much later than the 7th century. But I have to say that I did not divert in to see them!

Towards the end of my walk I did divert a little bit to left. Google showed me a way to arrive directly at my stop for the night without having to go into the city centre and come back out, so that is what  I did. i walked across a few fields and crossed the motorway and soon was in the outskirts of the city, and Google led me to the front door. I had arranged to stay in the Maison Diocesaine of the Diocese of Arras, (details under accommodation). This was very economical, and with a pilgrim discount. A large and imposing building which had been home to several Orders of Sisters over the years, and also a seminary in 20th century. Simple rooms, but comfortable. And very friendly which is always a bonus.

And really that was all for the day. I was tired after the long walk, during which it had rained quite a few times. Tomorrow is a rest day so plenty of time to explore Arras.